“Indie Talks” with Fabian Pellet
Fabian Pellet Essential
We are going to know in depth a new independent watch brand born in 2024 founded by a young Swiss artisan watchmaker named Fabian Pellet.
1. Who is Fabian Pellet and how did you get started in the watchmaking? What did you study?
A Swiss native, born and raised near Lausanne in French-speaking Switzerland. I moved to the Vallée de Joux at 16 for a four-year apprenticeship at the Vallée de Joux Technical School. Surprisingly, I discovered a genuine enjoyment of studying there, and through hands-on experience, a passion for watchmaking began to develop. I then continued my training in Le Locle for two years, specializing in complications and antique watch restoration. This second, more challenging program broadened my knowledge and introduced me different approaches to the craft. Living in Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds brought me into close proximity with numerous factories, museums, and highly skilled professionals.
Fabian Pellet
2. What was your previous experience before founding your own brand? What has it been like for you to start working for a major manufacturer like Breguet and to be involved with major complications such as minute repeaters?
As you mentioned, my first full-time position was at the Breguet manufacture back in the Vallée de Joux, a large factory employing 700 people. My technical degree, combined with the support of understanding managers, allowed me to train on almost their entire product line. At the age of 25, I achieved a personal milestone by joining the minute repeater workshop, a small team of five watchmakers. Chiming watches have always captivated me with their almost magical sounds, so this was a dream come true. However, I spent only a year and a half there before moving to an even more prestigious department: Grandes Complications. Working with this incredibly talented team was an extraordinary learning experience. My work involved restoring Breguet watches from the founder's time and producing highly limited series, such as the Grande Sonnerie tourbillon. These specialized projects provided hands-on experience in manufacturing virtually every component of a watch. The role also included historical research and technical drawing. I dedicated about eight years to this workshop.
My time at Breguet was invaluable for my development, thanks to the opportunity to work with passionate, interesting, and highly skilled professionals across every department I worked in.
Later, I felt a desire to give back and share my knowledge with younger generations. I strongly believe that this art is a precious heritage that must be carefully preserved. I spent five years teaching at the same school where I first learned my craft. This was a powerful experience, requiring me to adapt to many new challenges. While I greatly enjoyed connecting with the students and their fresh ideas, I soon felt a desire to return to working directly with high-end watches and precious materials.
3. Do you remember your first watch when you were a child?
A Flik Flak was definitely my first watch, followed by a Casio. I remember wanting the calculator version, but I ended up with the standard model. Nothing Fancy, pretty typical for a kid in Switzerland in the early '90s.
4. What has it meant for you, as a Swiss watchmaker, to establish yourself in Japan, a market with so much knowledge and demand for watches?
Let me explain why I moved from Switzerland two years ago. It was primarily for family reasons, as my wife is Japanese. I had already spent several years getting to know the country and even had the chance to work at the Swatch Group customer service center in Tokyo for a year back in 2013.
Working as a watchmaker in Japan has definitely had its challenges. Since I spent my entire career up to that point in Switzerland, my professional connections are all based there. I've had to adjust to different suppliers, tools, electrical voltage, and even the climate. I'm very grateful for the advice and support I've received from Japanese watchmakers and the instructors at the watchmaking school in central Tokyo, where I now give several seminars each year.
Japan is a very unique market, and since this is my first experience working independently, I don't have anything else to compare it to. I've been impressed by the deep knowledge of watch collectors, regardless of nationality. They are exceptionally well-informed, and their individual approaches to the hobby are truly gratifying.
In Japan, there's a strong appreciation for craftsmanship and high-end, exclusive products, which naturally puts Haute Horlogerie in a very favorable light. This is quite different from Switzerland, where the big names in independent watchmaking are much more established. While the number of independent watchmakers in Japan is growing, the overall atmosphere is still quite different.
In conclusion, living in Japan presented an extra challenge for producing my watches, but it proved beneficial in terms of increasing visibility and facilitating sales.
Although this is still a very modest beginning, I'm incredibly grateful for this opportunity. I began this venture by creating watches according to my own vision, unsure of public reception.
Fabian Pellet Essential
5. What are your inspirations when creating your watches?
I've mainly developed my inspiration through years of practice and study. Through this process, I have unconsciously discovered the mechanisms and forms I most appreciate in watchmaking.
Some elements are essential for me, others need to be adjusted to match my ideas, and some simply come from my own thoughts.
Many great watchmakers have created magnificent things in the past, making huge mechanical improvements and having incredible aesthetic taste.
Looking at the watches or clocks of Breguet, Janvier, Houriet, or Berthoud, some of which are 250 years old, is truly inspiring. German silver ébauches crafted in the Vallée de Joux 150 years ago and chronometers developed around La Chaux-de-Fonds a century ago are a great source of inspiration.
Certain contemporary creations from smaller brands represent outstanding achievements and command admiration. The competitive spirit among makers encourages innovation and elevates the quality of new creations, which is also a significant source of inspiration.
Fabian Pellet Essential
6. What do you think is the DNA of Fabian Pellet watches?
I believe a brand's true identity develops over time. What I can say for now is that I appreciate a classic style, which I find timeless and beyond fleeting trends. For me, classic doesn't equate to boring; it's not just for formal occasions. It's about making it your own and enjoying it.
With this creation, I aimed for a discreet and elegant time display, keeping the movement's magic for the wearer. You know what you're wearing, and only connoisseurs will recognize the subtle details that pique their interest.
This approach likely comes from my love for pocket watches. Their dials with delicate hands make you wonder what is inside. Once you open it, you find an astonishing movement with beautifully designed bridges and a level of finishing that only a watchmaker will fully appreciate as it's meticulously executed even in hidden areas, on the sides and beneath every spring, wheel, and screw. It's truly inspiring to consider that this level of craftsmanship was achieved some 150 years ago.
I am committed to evolving my creations as I gain experience.
7. What is your first creation? What can you tell us about the main characteristics of your Essential watch?
I designed a watch that I personally wanted to wear, based on my own aesthetic and technical preferences. My initial goal was to put the theories and principles I had learned into practice. I challenged myself to design, calculate, and create a watch entirely independently. After completing the design, I crafted each movement component using traditional, hand-operated machines and tools. No CNC machining was used for this first series.
Key characteristics of the "Essential" watch include a slim and well-proportioned case.
Thin blue steel hands.
A handcrafted Grand feu enamel dial with black enamel numerals.
A substantial power reserve of 58 hours.
Regarding the movement, my priority was to use a German silver mainplate and bridges.
Fine, traditional Geneva stripes.
Blackened hand engravings.
Black polished screws with narrow slots, contrasting with contemporary industry trends. Similarly, minimal clearance around the screw heads on the bridges.
A free-sprung Breguet overcoil hairspring.
A relatively compact escapement, with the escape wheel positioned under the balance wheel.
Gold chaton for the escape wheel and pallet fork.
A balance wheel and barrel designed for maximum dimensions.
Traditional gear teeth profiles with flat bottom rather than rounded ones.
Elimination of unnecessary, constantly rotating intermediate wheels in the time-setting mechanism.
A jeweled barrel—essential, in my opinion, due to the high pressure exerted on this rotating component.
No visible casing screws.
Minimizing the overall visible number of holes and screws for a clean aesthetic.
Fabian Pellet Essential
8. What has led you to create such a simple watch with a classic look if you have been working on complications throughout your professional experience?
Working on complications taught me a crucial lesson: the importance of thoroughly checking each function as I assemble a movement, before adding further components.
Without this careful process, the movement might function, but if it doesn't, identifying the source of the problem becomes extremely difficult due to the number of parts involved. By meticulously checking each stage, I can troubleshoot any issues if needed before proceeding. The reason I emphasize this is that a reliable base movement is fundamental to any complicated watch.
I don't mean that this first movement is intended as a platform for future complications, although that might be a possibility. Rather, I wanted to test my own abilities. I needed to prove to myself that I could create a simple and reliable movement before embarking on a more ambitious project that might not succeed. Creating this movement was already a significant undertaking, and I learned a great deal in the process. This experience has given me greater confidence to tackle more complex designs in the future.
It's important to clarify that while I have experience in assembling various complicated watches, designing one from scratch, without using a pre-made movement blank (ébauche), and performing all the necessary calculations and drawings, is a completely different challenge that demands considerably more time and expertise. This is why I chose to begin with a simple watch.
Why such a simple, almost minimalist design?
Several years ago, I created a wristwatch case for an antique key-wound Jules Jurgensen movement I owned. The key-wound mechanism resulted in a much cleaner aesthetic. There was no need for a crown or ratchet wheel to transfer power from the winding stem, as the watch was simply wound with a key directly on the barrel arbor.
This experience inspired the design of the Essential, and I incorporated different mechanical solutions to bring the winding system to the dial side.
As a teacher, I also find this construction quite instructive.
As the saying goes, "less is more."
This open architecture doesn't conceal the barrel, wheels, or mainplate. It allows one to appreciate the "essential" elements: the mechanism and its decorations. This is the origin of the watch's name.
9. Have you fully developed your first caliber?
Yes, absolutely, and it was a significant undertaking. Typically, watch movements are conceived and designed by specialized engineers—it's a profession in itself.
However, for me, this was essential. In my view, this is what an independent watchmaker has to offer: a movement that is, ideally, even more compelling and innovative than those found in mass-produced watches.
Large manufacturers invest millions in movement development, sometimes with mixed results. Independent watchmakers offer movements born from their own expertise, often excelling in areas where industrial production falls short.
Clearly, the immediate emotional connection one feels with a unique design, the meticulous attention to detail, and the significant amount of handcrafting all contribute immense value.
It’s also crucial to remember that watchmaking is not solely about decoration; it's fundamentally about creation. There is a vast body of knowledge involved beyond simple embellishment, even though decoration itself is a complex and demanding discipline.
Returning to my own project, through working on various types of watches and clocks, I gradually developed a sense of the mechanisms I preferred and those I considered reliable.
Around 2010, I began teaching myself 3D CAD design with a couple of friends. We challenged each other with drawing exercises, starting with individual components and progressing to entire movements. This self-directed learning allowed me to gain experience over the years, eventually giving me the confidence to develop my own movement.
To begin, I first outlined the key characteristics of the watch I envisioned. Then, I started with 2D drawings, progressing to 3D models of the movement, and finally completing the design of the dial and case.
Calculating and positioning the gears was a considerable challenge, requiring me to redraw the movement repeatedly until I was satisfied.
The entire process, from initial concept to a fully functional prototype, spanned five years as I was still working on a full-time job during the first years.
Fabian Pellet Essential
10. What is your yearly production?
My current production is approximately three watches per year. I aim to increase this output, but quantity is not my primary focus.
I am currently producing the first series of watches while simultaneously developing minor improvements to the movement and case for the second series.
11. What is the price of this first watch?
The retail price of my first watch was CHF 60 000.
Selling this first series meant a lot to me, as it enabled me to start this adventure and continue making watches my way. I therefore invested significant effort in maximizing its value, crafting it with a platinum case as a limited edition.
12. How do you see the future of Fabian Pellet brand, where do you want to be in a period of around 5 years? What surprises are in store for the future in terms of new watches or complications?
Over the next five years, my vision is to cultivate a small, dedicated team, refine my production tooling, and forge strong, collaborative partnerships with key suppliers.
My primary goal is to continue enjoying my work by constantly challenging myself with new mechanisms and exploring different materials. I want to create watches that are both enjoyable to make and enjoyable to wear.
As mentioned previously, my focus remains on developing innovative ideas rather than maximizing production volume. While I have some concepts in mind, it’s still too early to discuss specific future projects as development has not yet begun and some might not succeed. Basically, I intend to develop new models and evolutions of the Essential line as well as creating movements with integrated complication.
13. What are the pros and cons of being a small independent watch brand?
One of the primary challenges of being a small, independent brand with limited production volume and a new name is supplier relationships. Many suppliers are initially hesitant to work with a new, small-scale operation. Finding those willing to collaborate, and who can consistently deliver the quality I require, can be a significant hurdle.
In contrast, when contacting suppliers as a representative of a well-known school or established manufacturer, the response is typically quite different, and securing desired components becomes much smoother.
Another challenge is the reduced opportunity for technical discussions. I greatly value exchanging ideas and solutions when faced with technical obstacles. This is less readily available when working independently, especially in a country where watchmakers are less prevalent than in Switzerland.
However, the ability to manage a project from the initial concept and sketches to the final delivery of a finished watch is very rewarding and provides invaluable learning experiences throughout the entire process.
You don't get this personal connection to the whole process in a factory; it's unique aspect of independent watchmaking. That's precisely what I was looking for.
While I am genuinely pleased with the results so far, I recognize that this is just the beginning, and I am committed to continuous improvement. This is a very exciting journey.
14. What are your main markets?
My market is less defined by geography and more by shared knowledge and appreciation for horology. People approaching me comes from every continent and are looking for something specific, an experience, an object of craftmanship and expertise.
As I mentioned earlier, I had the chance to exchange with my customers and collectors, I’m always amazed by how much they know about watches and the way the appreciate and value details.
15. If you were not wearing a Fabian Pellet watch on your wrist, what brand and model would you use?
It depends on the occasion. I'm quite content with my current collection, which includes a latest Speedmaster (a fine chronograph originally developed by Lemania, later acquired by Breguet), a 36mm classic Breguet Regulator, and a Chronomètre Souverain by F.P. Journe. If I were going all out, I'd love to have an MB&F Legacy Machine. And if you're asking about recent watches I've been impressed by—especially the stories behind them—I'd definitely say Petermann Bédat and Simon Brette. Their work is incredibly inspiring.
I'd like to express my sincere gratitude to you, Alfonso, for contacting me and showing interest in my work, particularly as it diverges from mainstream trends. Thank you for providing this platform to share my thoughts and for your thoughtful questions.
For any inquiries or to stay updated on my work, please visit my website or follow me on Instagram.
Instagram: @fabian_pellet